Silly Season 2010

Port of Hydra, crowded since time immemorial.

Perhaps because we have lived here too long, or maybe because we just know the island and locals too well, intelligence concerning last week’s tragic nautical event involving the sinking of a passenger ferry, crushed by a monstrous cruise yacht in the main port of Hydra, was greeted with a grain of sea salt in our village.

Freedom II heading into Hydra Harbor.

Within minutes of the drama’s unfolding in the big city, the tom-toms (these days, text messages) had informed us of the excitement occurring in the island’s main harbour. Before we sound too sceptical or cynical in our reporting “the rest of the story,” the Comet wishes to add, had anyone been hurt or made to suffer financial ruin, in no way would we take a lighthearted approach to the story. On the contrary, our sources have revealed that all’s well that end’s well.*

Cruise yacht Bilmar.

Highlights from the initial murmurrings suggested that passengers’ lives were in danger, some near-drownings had been witnessed, and one of the island’s largest mainland transportation boats, the Freedom II, was sinking amidst scenes of pandemonium. Indeed, crew of the offending craft—a huge, privately owned luxury cruise yacht named the Bilmar—were nonchalantly ignoring the plight they had caused, and a poor Hydra family was about to be destitute, probably left to starve, their dreams sinking before their eyes, while fat-cat guests aboard the floating palace sipped exotic cocktails, pretended not to notice the panic on the harbour quay.

Various and sundry ships crowded into the Port on an average summer day.

Happily, the on-land reality and postcatastrophe facts are a little more in line with what we expected at the outset. Let’s be quite straightforward: given the amount of sea tonnage in shipping terms, as well as the number of yachts, passenger ferries, hydrofoils, catamarans, fishing boats, cargo boats—in fact just about every type of floating vehicle with the possible exception of aircraft carriers—frequenting the little port, it is in fact surprising to most, and a tribute to the seafarers, that so few accidents occur in the high-season confines of Hydra harbour.

Two boats aiming for the narrow harbor outlet.

As with any excessively busy intersection, the odd fender bender is ultimately inevitable. In this case perhaps the harbour master should have discouraged the Bilmar from entering the harbor, especially as the sea was choppy due to wind on the July 16. Apparently the cruiser, in trying to manoeuvre back out, drifted against the Freedom water bus, puncturing the hull in two places just below the waterline.

Ships have been navigating that passage, generally without incident, for centuries.

Indeed, instant rescue operations erupted the moment the incident occurred. Savvy Hydriot sailors rallied to the floundering boat’s aid and managed to save the Freedom II from going under with the ingenious use of floating barrels and help of a local building crane. With hindsight, some locals even suggested that as the insurance and instant offer of remuneration from the yacht owner himself were going to cover all damages; they should have let the boat sink. As it is, Freedom II is in the repair shop and expected to be up and running in a couple of weeks, complete with refurbished engines and equipment.

Many lives were saved.

The only rumour still afloat surrounding the incident is the possible reposting of a certain harbour chief, perhaps to a very small and distant port. This said because he had not behaved, at the time of the accident, in a courteous manner. A pistol was nearly unholstered during a postcollision argument with a local captain. This, of course, is also only hearsay, but like all rhubarbs on the island, where there is smoke on the water, there quite possibly a sinking ciaqui.

* We spoke to the Zogos family on July 20, who assured us that they are doing well. Freedom II is in drydock for repairs and will be up and running again in a few weeks. Meanwhile, it’s business as usual, with Freedom I still running a full schedule. For schedule info, see the Hydra Lines website (for contact info, click “Επικοινωνία“) or call 6947325263

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Summer bathers coming and going from Kamini’s Baby, aka Castello, Beach

To be fair, Castello did a grand job restoring Kamini’s old armory to its former glory, and the initial worry about an excess of skoopethia (garbage) and sewage pollution in the little bay of what was known as “Baby Beach” has not materialised. In fact kudos to the Castello gang for setting an ecofriendly example when it comes to takeover bids and development projects.

A smattering of sun worshippers in mid-summer, 1984

Raw sewage is extracted from the cafe-restaurant’s vothros (septic tank) with the aid of a noninvasive, high-powered electric pump, sitting up the hill behind the establishment; the waste then passes through a series of sand filters, and then recycle water is used to irrigate the land behind the valley in which Castello is situated. It’s similar, our sources say, to the “grey-water” systems used throughout the Caribbean.

Subtle blue piping carries waste water away from the sea to be recycled for
irrigation in the valley behind Castello.

However, as local full-time residents (or “old timers,” that is, decades-long punters of the tranquil little pebble beach in Kamini), we were personally disappointed by this onward march of “progress” into our little village. It’s like a little piece of Mykonos has landed in our immediate vicinity.

Brollies and chaises, occupied by spectators and packed sardinelike all along the back of Baby Beach, make one feel like one is on-screen at a drive-in (lie-in) cinema. Once submerged in the water and off snorkelling though, one can ignore the sensation.

Still, one cannot help but feel a little sad. Even if we did sport a large holiday wallet, we would rather have gone to the Cyclades for such service. The music, too, is unintrusive—but why is it necessary? It’s certainly not our semideserted family beach anymore.

Optimistic waiters hover behind the umbrellas, hoping to bare trays of expensive cocktails … and, well, you know the syndrome. A step forward into luxury for some is still a step in the wrong direction for those of us who prefer the status quo.

Status quo ante.

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